Rich Eso discusses the ongoing debate over X-Plus boxes. Do you let them pile up? Or do you get rid of them and reclaim some space? Rich goes into how he’s preparing to move his collection to a new house without his X-Plus boxes.

• See more content from Rich at his Fresh Vinyl Reviews YouTube Channel.

​​By John Stanowski Originally posted September 10th, 2020​ on Kaiju Addicts.

X-Plus collector and toy photographer, Ted Ekering, has set social media on fire with his recent set of diorama photos featuring the Gigantic Series Godzilla 2019 vinyl figure by X-Plus.

What makes these photos radioactively awesome is that he had employed not one, not two, not three, but FOUR tricks of the trade.

Trick #1: He has employed a set of Japanese N-scale buildings in the foreground and background. This size building model is most closely in scale with any X-Plus 30cm Series figure based on a 50-meter monster. That includes all of the Showa series Godzilla figures as well as most of the Millennium series figures. However, as you can see, you are really not limited to those figures. These buildings look fantastic with an X-Plus figure at any scale.

Trick #2: Ted had shot these photos out under the sun for a real sky backdrop. In addition to the authentic clouds and blue hue, the sunlight casting down on the diorama gives an extra touch of realism. (More on this later…)

Trick #3: Ted has further enhanced his diorama with some custom rubble so fine in texture that it looks ridiculously real.

​Ted combined this mixture with some more recognizable debris in the form of pieces of N-scale building models, faux girders and more.

Add some buildings and your figure and you’re ready to rumble.

And for Ted’s final trick (#4), he has employed forced perspective. Did you notice the “real” buildings in the background yet? How about those power lines?
By positioning the camera down low and up close to the diorama and figure, the real background “lines up” with the scene infecting the foreground models with realism.

​Pull the camera back and up and you can see what Ted really had to work with on his second floor balcony.

​There really is no need for a fancy camera to capture amazing images like these. Ted used an iPhone 6, a model which came out 5 years ago!

If you are interested in acquiring some of those demolition buildings and building kits, you’ll have to go on the hunt for them. Some are made by Tomytec and a company called FidgetKute (broken link) or EatingBiting (??). One of the later may be knockoffs of the other so shop with caution.

Ted is an English language teacher living in Okayama, Japan. After school, he’s a ravenous toy collector.

By John Stanowski Originally posted January 5th, 2020​ on Kaiju Addicts.

The Toho 30cm Series Favorite Sculptors Line Godzilla (1962) surprised many collectors last summer with its lighter-than usual paint apps. It looks great. But it does have a way of sticking out on the shelf when surrounded by other X-Plus figures with the usual darker hues.

David Eric Dopko, a long-time Godzilla fan and X-Plus collector, has recently completed a repaint of his FSL Godzilla 1962 and he agreed to provide some guidance for those who have considered doing the same but didn’t know where to start.  

KAIJU ADDICTS: David, what prompted you to repaint this figure?

DAVID ERIC DOPKO: Let me start by saying I really liked the paint job on the figure but it really wasn’t movie-accurate.

KAIJU ADDICTS: Agreed.

DAVID ERIC DOPKO: It was definitely a departure from the basic dark gray paint scheme which most of the X-Plus Godzilla figures have. I did like the nuanced detail and subtle dry brushing. But, I wanted to duplicate that vibe with a more movie-accurate a paint job.

KA: I happen to know that you are a modeler. Would I be correct in saying that this was probably something very easy for you to do? 

DED: Yes, I’ve been building models for about 20 years. Although I was surprised by the color scheme, I actually really liked it. Initially I had not intended to repaint it. As you are probably well aware, it’s always a difficult decision on what color to paint a 1962 Godzilla.

The suit looks so vastly different from scene to scene, night versus day, etc. One could argue that the paint job we got reflected the last scene in King Kong vs. Godzilla where, on the slopes of Mount Fuji, Godzilla was dirty and dusty from wrestling with Kong.

KA: So, even though you decided to repaint, other collectors who have this figure shouldn’t feel like there is something lacking because of its paint scheme, right?

DED: Oh, absolutely not! I think the paint scheme you get is still one of the best X-Plus has done so far.

KA: That’s because of the large amount of highlights and its dusty/dirty effects, etc.?

DED: Exactly. If you look at it carefully, there are many different colors in there.

KA: But, despite this you still decided to give it a more standard look.

DED: Ultimately, I did. I just thought it was time for change! I think my motivation for doing it over this past weekend was due to a few things. First of all, I watched the newly released Criterion Showa Godzilla Collection blu-ray discs for inspiration. Then I saw that you had showcased this figure in your X-Plus Facebook group post and then it was discussed again in Leslie Chambers’ X-Plus Xplosion livestream chat on Youtube.

Honestly, when I first started to apply the new base coat I starting to regret my decision.

KA: Are you happy with how it turned out?

DED: Yes, in the long run it exceeded my expectations.

KA: Now, the idea of repainting or even touching up an X-Plus vinyl may seem crazy to some collectors even though these figures are basically vinyl kits which are just pre-assembled and pre-painted for you.

DED: You summed it up perfectly. With my modeling background, in my eyes, X-Plus figures are pre-painted and pre-assembled model kits. So to do anything from a slight touch-up to major deconstruction projects is second nature to me.

KA: Would you say someone who hasn’t done any modeling or painting probably shouldn’t get notions to “try this at home”?

DED: I wouldn’t say that, I think if they just need a few paint touch-ups for scrapes or scuffs it’s a pretty simple procedure.

A really important tip that I’d be happy to share with people who want to do paint touch-ups is to match the original paint color as much as possible. That seems like a pretty obvious thing to say, but people need to remember to mix several different colors until they find the right combination.

In other words, it’s not just dark gray paint. There are tones of blue, brown, red and even black in most of the Godzilla skin colors.

KA: Doesn’t the color of paint change from when it’s wet and when it’s dry? Can you trust what you see while you are mixing?

DED: That’s a really good point. What I suggest is to do a paint swatch on the bottom of the foot and let it dry and making sure the color is right before moving on.

KA: I‘m sure the big question on everyone’s minds is: What kind of paint do you use?

DED: Always use acrylic water-based paint. That’s very important. Never use oil or enamel.

When purchasing acrylic paint always try to search for a matte or flat color.

These are the colors I used for the ‘62 figure.

KA: Does this paint always come in tubes or can they come in jars as well?

DED: Absolutely. Usually it’s more economical to buy larger containers of paint. The good news is you can get all of these paints from Amazon and never have to leave the house. Also, I think Michael’s craft stores carry a few brands of acrylic paint.

KA: Earlier you said that you were floored by all of the highlights and subtle color changes on the FSL Godzilla 1962’s original paint apps. What did you do to get some of that back after you applied your new, darker base coat? How do you add shadows and highlights?

DED: After applying the base coat, I go back in with a darker wash on the areas that I wish to give the appearance of shadows.

KA: By “wash” do you mean a darker color which you water down in order to fill in parts of the skin texture?

DED: Yes, a diluted paint mixture.

​KA: Then you add the highlights?

DED: Then, I go over some areas with a lighter version of my new base color. Drybrush effects are created by utilizing a very small amount of paint on an extra dry paintbrush.

Also, do not apply too much pressure. Brush very lightly.

Finally, be careful not to overdo it. It may look okay, but to me that’s the difference between it looking like a model kit or looking like it’s stepped out of the movie. Does that make sense?

KA: Yes. Highlights should be something that you “discover” after looking at it. Not something that jumps out at you as soon as you lay your eyes on it.

DED: Exactly.

KA: How do you achieve the feathering on the dorsal spines?

DED: That’s basically an example of the drybrush technique.

KA: You just drybrush lightly and accumulate the effect?

DED: Yes. And, again, there are different tones in the colors of the dorsal plates.

KA: Do you have a magic recipe or starting off point for the color you use on the tips of the dorsal spines?

DED: Gray, yellow, tan and white. It all depends on what suit it is and how they look in the films. Sometimes, there are even tones of blue.

KA: But what is a good starting point? If there was a generic, acceptable shade to use on the fins in most cases, what would the recipe be?

DED: Tan, white and a bit of gray.

KA: Does customizing a figure with new paint devalue it?

DED: First of all, if the customization makes sense and it’s done well, then it definitely retains the value of the figure and sometimes even increases it.

Secondly, these figures cost a lot of money, so there’s no reason why you can’t customize them to make them exactly the way you want them to look. Take your time, ask questions, and have patience.

And, if it fails: contact me. In most cases, I can fix it for you.

KA: Where can you be reached?

DED: You can find me in the X-Plus group. You can also use the Contact Form on my Zenfolio site.

KA: Where can our readers hear more from you?

DED: The Gods & Monsters Photography Group on Facebook, and also at my photography portfolio at
https://davidericdopko.zenfolio.com/

You can also catch me on the Youtube Series Collect All Monsters. I’m part of an ensemble cast of collectors who will discuss collecting Godzilla!

By John Stanowski Originally posted November 28th, 2019 on Kaiju Addicts.

X-Plus Collector Mike Eberl shows you how to give your vinyls a voice! His video takes you through the steps of obtaining an inexpensive audio module, adding your kaiju sounds and attaching it to your figure which will make them roar at the touch of a button!

​​By John Stanowski Originally posted September 20th, 2019​ on Kaiju Addicts.

​With so many X-Plus releases coming out, it’s often hard to decide when to buy and when to pass. Collector Bryce Erwin takes you on a tour of his own collection and discusses how he carefully curates instead of collects. His approach makes a world of sense considering the price tags on most of these pieces.

This video is also a fantastic introduction to collecting X-Plus in general. If you’re new to the line, you’re in for a treat.

​​By John Stanowski Originally posted December 30th, 2018​ on Kaiju Addicts.

​The new Large Monster Series Mothra 1964 Ric Boy version came paired with a re-issue of the Large Monster Series Godzilla 1964. Some collectors, though, already had the original release of the 25cm Series Godzilla ’64 already sitting on their shelves and so opted to buy Mothra solo.

Thing is, there’s a footprint on Mothra’s sandy base meant for Godzilla’s foot to rest in. The new G’64 comes with a small base that rests under his tail and lets one foot sit on Mothra’s base and the other on the shelf. Owners of the original Godzilla ’64, though, have a completely different, fuller base with raises the figure slightly off the shelf and supports it into a standing position. (The figure can’t stand properly without something holding the tail up.)

Now, just because you have an original Godzilla beside a new Mothra doesn’t mean you can’t arrange them the same way as the Ric set was meant to. As I already demonstrated in my recent 25cm Godzilla 1964 Review, you can have the figure stand directly on the shelf and still use the base to support the tail, just not in the way in which it was intended.

So, if you like, you can still “connect” these two figures even if you don’t have that new mini base for Godzilla. Just press his foot into the footprint, press and hold it while sliding the original base behind him until his right heal and tail rest on it.

By John Stanowski Originally posted June 13th, 2015 on Kaiju Addicts.

N Scale Buildings made for electric train sets are a great way to add even more interest and pizzazz to your X-Plus collection. You can scatter them between figures on the shelves. Or, you can create entire dioramas using not only N Scale buildings but environment elements like hills and trees. Plus, toy photographers can reach new levels of awesomeness by incorporating them into their shots. Having Godzilla on your shelf is cool. But having him tower over buildings is potentially cooler! N Scale buildings help make these 12-inch X-Plus vinyls feel a little bigger on the shelf.

​N Scale buildings come in a small variety of sizes. Yes, they are still in scale with each other. It’s just that some buildings have more floors than others. There are also a small variety of other structures like electrical towers, radio towers, and more.

And while they’re cheap enough one at a time, amassing a small city like the one above will set you back a little over $300. But no one says you have to get them all at once.

The trick is to get the buildings in the proper scale. Japanese N Scale (or N Gauge) 1/150 scale sizes up perfectly with the X-Plus Toho 30cm Series figures which come from the Showa era or most of the Millennium era. Basically, any figure which is supposed to be 50 meters tall in the films is the best match for N Scale buildings and structures.

THE MATH
This is how I figured it out: (Keep in mind I could be way off as I was never very good at math.) When I first tried to find out if N Scale was a true match for X-Plus, I compared them to the original Godzilla, who was 50 meters tall. I converted his height into feet which came to about 164. Japanese N-Gauge comes in various ratios but 1/150 seems to be the most popular by far. So let’s divide 164 (feet) by 150 (the n scale ratio). We get 1.0933333 (feet) which is just a tad over one foot… or 12 inches (30cm). Perfect!

So this means that any X-Plus 30cm Series figure based on a suit from 1954 to 1975 in which Godzilla was 50 meters tall is technically a good match. He was 55 meters tall in most of the Millennium movies and I think that’s still acceptable. GMK, at 60 meters tall, is starting to push it. The Heisei Godzillas were 80 meters tall or more and technically do not size accurately with N Scale. The Large Monster Series (25cm) figures are far too small to scale properly with N Scale buildings.

But, let’s stop being technical for a moment. I think you’ll find that these buildings still look freaking awesome in the shadow of 30cm Series Heisei figures and even the 25cm line. I say this even though I’m an OCD freak when it comes to scale.

For now, though, let’s stick with the 30cm Series…

When I ordered my first batch of N Scale buildings, I was surprised and impressed by how large some of them turned out to be.

​As you can see above, some of them are just about the size you’d expect them to be. But there are a small number of buildings that are impressively large. Here we see the Toho 30cm Series Godzilla 1954 vinyl beside boxed four, six, eight and eleven story buildings.

​And again, out of the boxes.

And, yet again with a full spread. I don’t know about you, but seeing this for the first time was a dream come true. I spent the first two years of my X-Plus collecting wishing there were buildings I could pose them with. I’ve seen photos of these vinyls with these buildings before on the X-Plus Kaiju Collectors Facebook Group, The Godzilla Collectors Facebook Group, and even from the X-Plus Ric Boy Blog! But it never clicked that these buildings may actually be in scale with the figures. Finally getting around to doing the math to find out that they are in scale was a holy shit moment. Now I can’t get enough of these things.

​Now, it’s important to note that the Large Monster Series (25cm Series) is NOT in scale with these buildings. But, as you can see from the photo of the Large Monster Series Godzilla 1968 above, they still look GREAT together!

Fortunately, Japan seems to have a bustling train set market. Great news because, ideally, you should have Japanese buildings displayed with your Japanese Kaiju, right? Not only is the architecture often Japanese-y, but they often come loaded with Japanese decal signs. So, as if it weren’t enough that we can actually get buildings which are in scale with X-Plus… but we can get the Japanese variety! What more could you ask for?

It’s a good thing, too, that the Japanese kits are so abundant because there doesn’t really seem to be much to choose from at all when it comes to Western buildings from Western companies. In fact, there’s hardly anything at all. Just a bunch of outdated, smaller, often country-ish buildings. And practically NONE of them are taller than a few stories.

I’m not saying there’s nothing out there. By all means, have a look. I’m just saying you’ll find good buildings in searches quicker if you look for the Japanese variety, which we already know we want.

When shopping for N Scale buildings, it’s important to note that they do come in different sizes, even though they are all N Scale. After all, real world 1:1 buildings come in all sizes from single homes to skyscrapers. When searching for office buildings, it is not immediately clear which size you’ll be buying just by glancing at the product photos on Ebay or Amazon.

The trick is to count the floors. Most of the Japanese N Scale buildings seem to come in 5 stories or 8 stories. And, an extra three floors may not sound like much of a difference, but it really is. Let’s look at this photo again:

​Above: Here we have a KATO 4-story building, a KATO 6-story building, a KATO 8-story building and an 11-story Tomix building.

As you can see they’re significantly different in how high they reach. And, unfortunately, they all look the same in tiny, square Ebay and Amazon pics. So, remember: count the floors (don’t forget to count the ground floor) and refer to the photo above for an idea on how each building will size up to your figures.

Granted, the smaller buildings make your figures look bigger. If that’s the look you’re after, have at it! The smaller buildings also look better with the Large Monster Series figures.

But, I say you just can’t beat the 8 story buildings by KATO. They are HUGE and my favorites, by far.

The Japanese N-scale buildings available come in several main categories: modern office buildings, train station buildings (which can get pretty long, but still short), smaller “neighborhood” homes and stores, traditional style homes and saunas which, obviously are pretty short, and temples and shrines which can climb to respectable heights. I don’t have photos of those here as I haven’t gotten any… yet.

And then there are N Scale structures like electrical towers and refinery tanks. But more on those later!

Japanese N Scale buildings and structures come either pre-built or in do-it-yourself kit form. The good news is that most of the buildings come pre-built. Some of the TomyTec buildings need only a little assembly but even then, most of the pieces snap together leaving only a couple of pieces which actually require glue. Every single KATO building I’ve gotten has come pre-built and ready to display right out of the box, although, you may need to glue on the vertical signs.

Most buildings also come with a sheet of Japanese signs, banners and posters. You’ll have to carefully cut these, peel and attach.

Unfortunately, not everything comes fully or even mostly assembled. Practically ALL of the N Scale structures (as opposed to standard buildings) I’ve bought (towers, tanks, etc.) were full blown model kits which required Xacto knives, snippers, glue and a LOT of patience. But, again, more on those later.

It may not seem so at first glance, but these buildings are really packed with detail. I was surprised by all of the little details I kept discovering the first few times I looked at each one. There are windows, doors, more doors, doors that lead to stairs, staircases with stairs(!), sign posts and the list goes on. And most of them actually have floors behind the windows on every floor!

​Although not as ornate at the fronts, the sides and backs of these buildings still have something to see. This is especially helpful for photographers who don’t want the same few buildings in all of their shots since they can just rotate a few of them to show the backs.

These buildings are a perfect example of the old half full or half empty glass. It all depends on how you look at them. I think the only thing holding these pieces back from being mind-blowing replicas is their lack of a detailed paint job. The detail is there. And if the paint detail matched the level of detail in the sculpts, they would be unbelievable. I’m pretty damn happy with them the way they are.

There seems to be three main brands of Japanese N Scale buildings. (There are more but you have to get out there and search for this stuff).

TOMIX
I haven’t seen much from Tomix but they are the makers of the 4045 Large Office Building (Dark Grey) — eleven stories of awesome. At almost 10 inches in height, it’s clearly the tallest N Scale building I’ve come across. And it’s expandable! It’s comes completely assembled right out of the box but is actually composed of 7 pieces: the base floor, the roof and 5 pieces in between, each of which represent two floors. So besides being able to open this building up to add lights and other details inside the windows, you can combine pieces from multiple models. Just buy two Tomix 4045’s, pop the roof off of one of them and you can stack the second buildings floor modules to create one mega building.

The Tomix 4045 has close relatives. The Tomix 4018 Large Office Building is molded in beige and is two stories shorter. There is yet another variation, a much shorter white version. But it’s the 4045 Large Office Building (Dark Grey) that’s a must-have. It’s the tallest one out there and the closest thing you’ll get to a skyscraper.

TIP: Get two of them and you can still make them look different. The back of this building looks different from the front, so face one to the back and you’ve got two different buildings! Even better, Take two floors off one of the them and add them to the other for even more variety.

TOMYTEC
This company makes a LOT and you can’t go wrong searching for it. From what I’ve seen so far, the Tomytec buildings tend to be on the short side. They mostly make a lot of 5-story buildings which look AWESOME.

Tomytec buildings can come either pre-assembled (mostly) and in kit form. So, you want to take extra care to avoid the full kits if you’re not inclined to building them. But even their (mostly) pre-assembled buildings do require some assembly, but it’s quick to snap the small number of pieces together to get your building ready for the shelf.

Tomytec also makes other N Scale structures such as electrical towers, refinery kits (which you’ll see further down this post) and more.

KATO
My favorite brand BY FAR! Their N-Diotown line is AMAZING. They have four HUGE 8-story beauties with lots of detail, especially on the roofs. They also make smaller buildings so that your kaiju stomping ground can have a staggered skyline.

If Japanese buildings in scale with your X-Plus collection wasn’t sweet enough, there are also a good range of other structures to choose from. Electrical wire towers, radio towers, smoke stacks, tanks and…

​…Refineries! How many refinery tanks have we seen explode in Godzilla movies and Ultraman series? This is a freakin’ dream come true!

​I’m torn on how to describe the level of difficulty these kits pose. Many of the pieces fit together like magic and seem content to stay put with just a bit of spit. But there are just as many pieces which are tiny and require you to have small, dextrous fingers. And, often what the illustrated instructions ask you to do seem to require 3 hands or some magical ability. To the kits’ credit, though, they really do fit together incredibly well and some of the instructions you at first may think are impossible really do wind up being not that bad. I’m super impressed with how these were designed.

ELECTRICAL TOWERS

​These towers are not completely built yet, but I had to get this post out the door. These towers are PERFECTLY in SCALE with this ’64. But BE WARNED! Stay away from the KATO Electrical Towers kits. They are IMPOSSIBLE to build. On the other hand, the TomyTec towers in the above photo where fairly easy to assemble.

Japanese N Scale buildings can be found on Ebay and Amazon, many from Japanese sellers. Beware of sellers who offer economy shipping as the only choice. These will take a whole month to arrive. You can also find them at online model railroad shops and, of course, brick and mortar stores. Use search terms: “N Scale” and “buildings”. You might also try “structures”. And add the terms “Tomix”, “TomyTec” and “Kato” to zero in on the Japanese stuff.

​Here’s an AWESOME collection of photos from other toy photographers showing off N Scale buildings with their X-Plus figures:

By John Stanowski, Originally posted May 5th, 2015 on Kaiju Addicts.

​I’m not sure how I missed this but X-Plus showed off the base design for the new Large Monster Series Mothra 1964 Ric Boy Exclusive with Godzilla 1964 on their blog.

Looks like the egg will indeed be removable from the base. Good news, methinks! You now have options as to how you want it to look on your shelves. And toy photographers, rejoice! I have a feeling we’ll be seeing a lot of ‘outside’ shots of this set.

​And this photo settles the question “Will G’64 come with the base?” once and for all. Instead of the rocky platform that rose previous releases of the 25cm Godzilla 1964 to a height above other Godzilla figures in the line, you’ll be getting a little tail support instead. I kind of like this. Now Godzilla 1964 will be level with his brothers on the shelf.

I kind of wish X-Plus would make this rocky nub available separately for those of us who already have the G’64 and don’t like the original base. But, don’t fret. If you have an original and want your 64’s feet on the ground, I have an idea for that you use right now on my review.

By John Stanowski Originally posted March 22nd, 2015​ on Kaiju Addicts.

Collectors are finally getting their hands on their new X-Plus 30cm Varan vinyl figures from Diamond. Tail attachment on this figure is potentially difficult. The tail itself is softer than usual and is prone to crumbling when inserting into the body. Add to that a double layer of vinyl around the body hole which seems to resist softening up with the hairdryer.

Rich Eso, however, makes it look easy!

Watch his video and safe yourself some potential trouble.

See more of Rich’s reviews on his Fresh Vinyl YouTube Channel.

And be sure to visit Rich’s Fresh Vinyl Facebook Page!

​​By John Stanowski Originally posted April 20th, 2014​ on Kaiju Addicts.

Below is additional video from Rich posted on Kaiju Addicts December 3rd 2013, on tail attachments.

Is your X-Plus Large Monster Series Ebirah vinyl figure just laying there on the shelf in a lifeless lobster pose? Get a rock and read on!

Let’s face it: the X-Plus Ebirah doesn’t have great shelf presence. It just lies low on all fours (eights?). Granted, his body didn’t offer many options for the sculptor to create a dynamic pose. But that doesn’t mean your vinyl sea monster needs to hang low, making a big dip in your X-Plus shelf skyline.

Using a rock to give Ebirah a boost puts him in a better position to face the X-Plus Godzilla 1966. And it looks cool, too.

Choose your rock wisely. The sloped rock pictured here is a perfect size and shape. Plus it has some ridges which allow Ebirah’s smaller legs to grab on to.

If you’re worried about having something so heavy high up and potentially over heads, just look for a lighter rock. Metamorphic and especially sedimentary rocks are much lighter. Consider a piece of coral. That would be super light and fit the sea monster theme.

If you find yourself in a place where you can go rock shopping, but don’t happen to have your Ebirah figure with you, just remember a softball-sized rock will do the trick.

You can pose your Ebirah at different elevations simply by pushing him further up the rock. If he wants to slide back, support his tail with the wall, another figure or another, smaller rock.

And remember: the arms on the X-Plus Ebirah are poseable. They could be angled downward to hug the rock or raised even higher to engage Godzilla.

GOTCHA: Tilting Ebirah up so that some of his weight rests on his soft vinyl tail may bend it over time. It seems pretty sturdy to me, but you might have to consider this. To counter it, you could always… get another rock, and place it above his tail for more support.

​By John Stanowski Originally posted January 19th, 2014​ on Kaiju Addicts.